TANKWA KAROO, SOUTH AFRICA

The Tankwa Karoo, located in the northern region of the Western Cape, is a semi-desert landscape renowned for its unique avifauna. Despite its seemingly inhospitable environment, the area supports over 250 bird species, making it a hotspot for birding enthusiasts.

Just two and a half hours’ drive from Cape Town, the Karoopoort serves as a natural gateway to this region. This valley, historically used by settlers to traverse into the Karoo, is bordered by the Cederberg Mountains in the west and the Roggeveld Mountains in the south and east, creating a biodiverse haven for species specially adapted to these dry conditions.

Amongst the main attractions are the prinia-like Namaqua Warbler, the notoriously difficult-to-find Cape Eagle Owl, the charming Cinnamon-breasted Warbler, the uncommon Karoo Eremomela, and the springtime visiting Black-eared Sparrow-Lark.

Endemic and Sought-After Species

The Tankwa Karoo is celebrated for its concentration of endemic and sought-after bird species. In addition to the species above, the following birds are what most visitors will be looking for:

• Booted Eagle
• Burchell’s Courser
• Black-headed Canary
• Chats: Karoo, Sickle-winged and Tractrac
• Dusky Sunbird
• Greater Kestrel
• Grey Tit
• Ground Woodpecker
• Korhaans: Karoo and Southern Black
• Larks: Cape Clapper, Karoo Long-billed
• Ludwig’s Bustard
• Nightjars: Freckled and Rufous-cheeked
• Warblers: Layard’s and Rufous-eared

Other common and more-widely distributed species of interest include Verreaux’s Eagle, Black Harrier, South African Shelduck, Grey-winged Francolin, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Pririt Batis, the elegant Fairy Flycatcher, Karoo Lark, Large-billed Lark, Spike-heeled Lark, Mountain Wheatear and Grey-backed Cisticola. The list goes on.

If time allows, journey through Bain’s Kloof Pass for a chance to see Cape Rockjumper, Victorin’s Warbler (in densely vegetated streams), Protea Canary and Cape Siskin.

Karoopoort

Look for Grey-winged Francolin, if coming from De Doorns, before turning right into the Karoopoort. This river gorge is best known for the delicate Namaqua Warbler, restricted to the semi-arid Karoo and western Orange River. They prefer tangled thorn thickets amongst Phragmites reed beds (from which their Latin name derives). Learn and listen for their call and with some effort you should find a pair flitting between the trees and reeds. I found a pair opposite an avenue of figs where the road straightened before veering left and leaving the kloof.

You should see White-throated Canary, Pale-winged Starling, Chestnut-vented Warbler, Mountain Wheatear, Karoo Chat, Grey-backed Cisticola, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, and Yellow Canary. Karoo Scrub Robin, Karoo Prinia, Cape Bunting and Cape Sparrow are fairly common.

As you head north, keep an eye out for Pale-chanting Goshawk, and look for Pririt Batis in the thorn-tree watercourses. This marks the southern edge of both species’ distribution.

Tierkloof Mountain Cottages

(https://www.tierkloofmountaincottages.co.za/)

Richard Flack’s article (https://theflacks.co.za/news/my-best-bird-photography-in-the-tankwa-karoo/) prompted our first visit to this vast unspoilt property with a network of hiking trails and spectacular river valleys. A weekend at these idyllic cottages will host a perfect introduction to the region’s birding.

We followed Richard’s directions to the gorge where he photographed a Cinnamon-breasted Warbler and we weren’t disappointed. We also had good sightings of Verreaux’s Eagle, Karoo Lark, Sickle-winged Chat, Layard’s Warbler, Black-headed Canary, Fairy Flycatcher (on the veranda), and the gorgeous Rufous-eared Warbler. Unfortunately, we didn’t see his Karoo Eremomela.

More distant sightings included Booted Eagle, Southern Black Korhaan, and Grey Tit, amongst other more commonly-seen species.

Eierkop (“egghead”)

Two tillite hills emerge from a distance, rising up from the arid plains, one on either side of the straight gravel road north, 5km after leaving Tierkloof. South African Shelduck and Greater Flamingo frequent the large dam on your right, as well as Namaqua Sandgrouse.

A jeep track leads to the eastern egg-shaped hill. This is touted as another good spot for Karoo Eremomela. I’ve stopped here a few times, but they continue to elude me. (I have, to date, only seen them in the Goegap Nature Reserve near Springbok).

What sounded briefly like another Namaqua Warbler turned out to be a Dusky Sunbird. A pair called from the rocky slopes. There were several Karoo Larks and Karoo Chats. This hillock is also good for Bokmakierie, Malachite Sunbird and Lark-like Bunting.

Katbakkies picnic site

As you continue north you should be able to add the fourth chat member – the Tractrac – to this sometimes-tricky complex which includes Sickle-winged, Karoo, and Familiar Chats. Drive slowly and keep an eye out for Ant-eating Chat; stop and scan thick shrubs for the dainty Cape Penduline Tit; and with some luck you might see Greater Kestrel. You should soon be adding some of the larks which are more commonly seen in the Tankwa Karoo National Park: Large-billed, Spike-heeled, and Red-capped.

21km north of Eierkop is the turnoff west to Kagga Kamma and Op-die-Berg and the impressive Katbakkies Pass between the two which lends the picnic site its name amongst birders. The gorge’s true name is Skitterykloof. Enter the picnic site 3.5km from the turn, off the R355. I saw my first Cinnamon-breasted Warbler here many years ago, after scrambling up the loose boulders opposite the entrance to the picnic site, to gain the top of the short cliffs. Ground Woodpeckers have also been seen up here.

Explore the dry streambed behind the picnic site. Layard’s Warblers can be found in this narrow gorge. The thickets and wetlands at the picnic site also host Fairy Flycatcher, Pririt Batis, Cape Weaver, African Pipit, Acacia Pied Barbet, White-backed Mousebird, Three-banded Plover and Large Rock Martin.

The Cape Birding Route website (http://www.capebirdingroute.org/Tanqua_Karoo_Katbakkies.htm ) suggests a few additional stops in the area, if you have time, or want to return an alternative way.

Five kilometres north of the turn-off to Katbakkies on the R355 is the famous Tankwa Padstal, a charming roadside café with coffee, snacks, meals and a cold beer. It’s a compulsory stop in this dry hinterland. A few hundred metres further at a lay-by on the left, search the acacia thickets for Pririt Batis, Cape Penduline Tit, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, and Namaqua Warbler.

The unnamed road heading east from the Tankwa Padstal to the R356 (and Sutherland) might present Karoo Korhaan, Greater Kestrel and Double-banded Courser. Return south on the R356 to the R355 and look for Karoo Eremomela on accessible hillocks.

Tankwa Karoo National Park

This little-visited remote and vast wilderness requires an extra one or two days to get to and explore. It is ideally visited in a 4×4. Various accommodation options are available, spread out over the park (https://www.sanparks.org/parks/tankwa-karoo ).

It is unbearably hot in summer, but by spring, flocks of Black-eared Sparrow-Larks visit. With luck the Endangered Ludwig’s Bustard and the well-camouflaged Karoo Korhaan may also be seen. I spent a weekend here hoping to find the near-mystical Cape Eagle Owl after seeing pictures of another recent visitor’s bounty, but left empty-handed. Freckled Nightjar and, in summer, Rufous-cheeked Nightjar occur here.

Birds we did see included Pale Chanting Goshawk, Tractrac Chat, Rufous-eared Warbler, Common Ostrich, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Capped Wheatear, a close-flying Black Harrier at dusk, and, in good numbers, the larks mentioned earlier: Large-billed, Spike-heeled, Red-capped, and Karoo. Karoo Long-billed Lark was heard. Visit the enormous Oudebaaskraal Dam for mature Jackal Buzzards and waders, including Black-necked Grebe.

The Tankwa is a mesmerising mix of arid plains, distant mountains and rocky hills a few hours from Cape Town, which supports many Karoo endemics and near-endemics. It is well worth a few days’ visit, especially before the hottest months.